Best known for its white sand beaches, warm ocean waters and picturesque sunsets, Waikiki is Oahu’s iconic gathering place for millions of visitors. Designer stores, tourist traps and ABC Stores are de rigueur.
But for the past few years, the region has been gaining notoriety in another arena: its burgeoning culinary scene. For decades, the likes of Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi and George Mavrothalassitis reigned. Today, Honolulu is enjoying a food renaissance thanks to some impressive new talent and restaurants that have recently emerged.
After many years, I returned to the island to check out its most buzz-worthy establishments — those capturing the attention of local and global foodies alike. Among them: Koko Head Café, a brunch-only spot from a Top Chef alum; the Pig and the Lady, a former pop-up that has become a permanent Chinatown fixture; MW Restaurant, from a prominent culinary couple and Morimoto, from the celebrity star Masaharu Morimoto, simply known to millions as Iron Chef.
Koko Beware
The Koko Head Cafe in Honolulu, Hawaii
For a true island experience, make your way to Koko Head Café in the quaint Kaimuki neighborhood. Opened by Lee Anne Wong of Top Chef fame, the former fashion designer-turned-restaurateur runs a bustling brunch house. On a Friday morning, a line had already formed by 8:30 a.m. Favourites such as the New Yorker-native’s Cornflake French Toast with sweet bacon, creamy black pepper maple syrup and Frosted Flakes gelato has locals and visitors coming back for more. The decadent breakfast dessert fills social media feeds daily.
Cornflake French toast with sweet bacon, creamy black pepper maple syrup and Frosted Flakes gelato from the Koko Head Cafe
Wong is also a dumpling master and that morning’s special was a deep fried dumpling made to perfection. The only let down was Wong’s breakfast congee of bacon, Portuguese sausage, heritage ham, soft poached egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and cinnamon-sugared croutons. The run of flavours and mix of sweet and savoury didn’t appeal to my more traditional Chinese sensibilities. That said, I will return to try some of her other beautiful dishes, including the Hawaiian-style pancakes and Ohayou Eggs that whizzed by our table.
Pigging out
Similar to Vancouver’s Chinatown, Oahu’s historic district is at the epicentre of new eateries. They include Grondin, Livestock Tavern and Lucky Belly. Leading the pack is The Pig and The Lady. After five years working at Chef Mavro restaurant, chef Andrew Le (the pig) decided to venture out on his own inviting people to experience his own unique style of Vietnamese cooking, based on his mom Loan Le’s teachings (the lady).
Chef Andrew Le (the pig) opened The Pig and the Lady based on his mom Loan Le’s teachings (the lady)
Originally a pop-up phenom and favourite at local farmer’s markets, Le eventually opened up a permanent spot on King Street in Chinatown. Born and raised on the island, Le is embracing Hawaii’s regional cuisine movement using his cultural roots to inspire his tastes. The result is a delicious and authentic blending of Vietnamese and the island’s multicultural flavours. Favourite dishes include the Pho French Dip Banh Mi, Laotian Fried Chicken, with pickled chili, fried shallots, roasted peanuts, kaffir lime and herb salad, and Le’s specialty Pho, a flavourful creation Mama Le would be proud to call her own.
Eat local
After meeting and spending almost two decades working alongside Alan Wong, alums Michelle Karr-Ueoka (pastry chef) and Wade Ueoka (sous chef) opened MW Restaurant. The husband-and-wife team’s creative cooking continues the tradition of Hawaii regional cuisine established by their mentor Wong and others, a movement that takes full advantage of the island’s local ingredients and blends it with innovative styles representative of Hawaii's melting pot.
First-time visitors simply must try MW’s Pressed Jidori Fried Chicken and Mochi-Crusted Opakapaka with house-made somen noodles. You won’t be disappointed. And those with a sweet tooth will enjoy Michelle’s impressive desserts. Her MW candy bar, comprised of macadamia nut-praline crunch, salt caramel, and Waialua chocolate, is sure to please. If I had one quibble with this eatery, nestled in a strip mall behind the Ala Moana Shopping Center, it would be the unremarkable room and its harsh lighting. One would expect more of an intimate candle-lit setting to match MW’s fine dining and price point.
Celebrity bitings
For stargazing, forever sunsets and fine Japanese cuisine, Morimoto is the place to be. The famed Masaharu Morimoto of Iron Chef and Iron Chef America fame is a frequent visitor to his Waikiki establishment, which anchors the ultra-chic Modern Honolulu Hotel along scenic Ala Wai yacht harbour.
The famed Masaharu Morimoto of Iron Chef and Iron Chef America fame is a frequent visitor to his Waikiki establishment, Morimoto, which anchors the ultra-chic Modern Honolulu Hotel
Punctuated by pretty hues of purples and greens, a crisp, cool white interior room awaits your arrival. It is dinner theatre at its best; prepare to experience bold flavours and the best seafood from Hawaiian and Japanese waters. The renowned celebrity chef masterfully fuses traditional Japanese food with Western ingredients and techniques.
Morimoto's Whitefish Carpaccio with hot oil, ginger and yuzu soy
My top choices (and there was much to choose from): Morimoto’s Carpaccio of Whitefish accompanied by hot oil, ginger, and yuzu soy; Ishi Yaki Buri Bop, yellowtail cooked tableside by our server in a hot stone bowl heaped with rice; and naturally, the sublime sushi, the finest selection of Oh-toro sushi, Kajiki (blue marlin) and Firefly Squid served Nigiri style.
Getting there:
Koko Head Café
1145 12th Ave.
The Pig and the Lady
83 North King St.
MW Restaurant
107-1538 Kapiolani Blvd.
Morimoto
1775 Ala Moana Blvd.
Tale of two hotels
When it comes to lodging, there are many ways to experience Honolulu. Along its famed two-mile stretch of Waikiki, sometimes referred to as Polynesia’s Vegas strip, there is no shortage of accommodations to choose from. Where to begin? Depends on your mood. Are you looking for more of an old-school island experience or a more modern escape?
For those in search of history, there is no better place than the Moana Surfrider, affectionately called the First Lady of Waikiki. The first hotel property to appear on the iconic stretch of sand, it was built in 1901, by shipping magnate Walter Peacock for Hawaiian royalty and the well-heeled steam-liner crowd. Rates were an outrageous $1.50 a night and included your own private phone and bathroom.
The Grande Dame — now a Westin Resort and Spa — celebrated its 115th anniversary earlier this month, with many festivities planned throughout the month. Situated in the heart of Waikiki, this classic beauty boasts an elegant veranda, sweeping staircase and period furnishings in the historic Moana wing.
Originally built with 75 guestrooms, the plantation-style property now offers some 800 rooms of all shapes and sizes after many exchanges of ownership, expansion and facelifts. Still a favourite of brides and grooms, more than 2,000 weddings and wedding celebrations are held on the iconic grounds annually. History buffs will appreciate the daily tours with the firm’s cultural director Kehaulani Kam, another island gem.
Sophisticates seeking a more contemporary stay need not look further than the Modern Honolulu, a luxury 353-rooom boutique property situated at the gateway to Waikiki far from the madding crowd. A welcomed addition to the island’s hotel scene, this independently owned marina-front resort definitely has its own sense of style. Don’t expect any island kitsch here; think sexy and sleek. Rooms are a study in white, with ivory-on-cream décor, and forever views of the Pacific Ocean.
The Modern Honolulu
But the luxury lodgings are just half the equation. The manicured property offers plenty of upscale play spaces for the well-groomed urbanite. A heavenly spa, beach club lounge and stylish daybeds on two pool decks make for relaxing days.
After dark, start with crafted cocktail at the Study, a stylish lobby lounge tucked behind a revolving bookcase. Then make your way upstairs to Morimoto’s for the island’s most imaginative Japanese cuisine, and finish your night at Addiction Nightclub, where the-most-buzzed-about DJs drop in to guest-spin. If you are looking for something out of the island ordinary, the Modern is the place to stay. Be sure to sign up for the hotel’s Friends with Benefits loyalty program for added perks.
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